Chicken Roosting boxes should be made from exterior grade plywood, and generally should not be stained. They work best when they are about 12 inches deep, 12 inches wide and about 12 inches tall on the side that mounts to the inside of the chicken coop. The chicken nesting boxes have a sloping top that slopes down to end up below the roosting perch. This is where chickens sit, and then lay their eggs into the chicken nesting or roosting box below.
One question that many backyard poultry flock lovers ask is how many hens can use the same chicken nesting box. Most people agree that you should provide one chicken nesting box for every four hens. Each box should be mounted to the inside of the chicken coop, located somewhere between 18 inches and 24 inches above the ground. This is also a convenient height to reach through an exterior egg door, to pick the fresh eggs that your obliging hens will lay.
Roosting perches need to be provided for the hens to sit on. These perches should also be no lower than 18 to 24 inches above the ground. Some folks use more than one perch, which could resemble a ladder that is leaning to the side. This allows the chickens to move around. The rule of thumb here is to try to provide at least 8 to 10 inches of perching area for each chicken.
The roosting perch should be mounted above one end of the chicken nesting box, an inch or so up, but close enough so that the hen will sit on the perch and lay her eggs in the box. The roosting perch should be made from wood, and most folks agree on a diameter of about 2 inches for regular size chickens and about an inch thick for bantams. Many folks actually use branches as roosting perches to help create a natural setting. Lastly, many chicken farmers in cold climates use flat 2x4 wood as perches to make the chicken sit flat on her feet, which helps keep her feet warm!
Chicken nesting boxes need a regular program for good sanitation. Start by using corrugated cardboard as a liner to fit the bottom of each nest. This makes it much easier to remove the lining material and to clean the nest on a regular basis. The cardboard should be replaced frequently, as the hens could peck though it or it could become soiled. If you prefer to use a longer lasting liner material for the bottom of your chicken roosting box, then some folks recommend using left over roofing shingles that are cut to fit. These will last much longer and are very durable. Some folks have concerns about using asphalt manufactured shingles due to possible health concerns. This becomes a personal choice.
Lastly, make sure to line the inside of your chicken nesting box with either wood shavings, straw or shredded paper. Some backyard farmers even use their old lawn clippings. If you choose to do this, make sure they are completely dried out and that you did not use chemicals on your lawn. These liner materials help to keep your eggs clean and reduce the chance of them being cracked. In the event that you do get a cracked egg that leaks, be sure to clean out the chicken nesting box completely and as soon as possible. Without good sanitation practices, bacteria can build up quickly in the nest and end up on new eggs. Always remove the nesting material after any egg breakage or if a hen uses the nest as a potty to avoid problems. Using the cardboard liner will stop a leaking egg from sticking to the bottom like glue.
To have the freshest eggs, straight from your backyard flock, try and gather eggs at least once a day, and keep them cool after they are gathered. Also, do not continue to reuse the same egg cartons as bacteria can build up and contaminate fresh eggs from this as well.
Sunday, November 9, 2008
How to Raise Baby Chicks!
Begin with a plan. Finding the Backyard Egg is a great start! Please bookmark this site, and visit us often. We hope to become a great source of information for the Backyard Pet Chicken Owner!
Once you bring your baby chicks home, where will their "brooding area" be? The brooding area is the contained place where your baby chicks will live until they can go outside. A large cardboard box, a rubber stock tank, or a suitable tub or other containment system can work. Ideally, for the chick's safety and your sanity, the sides should be at least 18 inches tall. It must be completely clean and dry before putting the baby chicks into it. It is important to provide adequate ventilation, but also keep the baby chicks from being near drafts. Ideally, locate this brooding area in a protected area of your home, safe from small children, other pets and drafts, but a garage or basement area might be best. Baby chicks can be a messy, as they love to pick at their bedding, which can create a bit of dust. Some folks could also find their smell to be a bit offensive. Plan ahead to pick the most suitable area!
The brooding area should be larger enough to provide up to 2 square feet per chick. The bottom of the area should be covered with one or more inches of pine shavings or ground corncob bedding. Remove all soiled litter as often as possible, but at least weekly, and add new litter as necessary.
For the first few weeks, baby chicks need a heat lamp. When using an infra-red heat, place it 18 inches above the top of the bedding for the first week, and raise it 2 inches per week until the bulb is about 24 inches above the litter. Another way to judge this critical step is by actual temperature. When taken at the level the chicks are at, the first week the temperature should be between 92 to 95 degrees. You then lower the temperature by about 5 degrees per week until the temperature remains at 70 degrees. Put the heat lamp on and check the temperature before you bring home your chicks, to make sure all works well.
Provide water in a poultry fount or waterer, specifically made for baby chicks. Clean it daily along with providing a constant source of fresh water. Use feeders designed for baby chicks, and try to position them near the waterers, but slightly closer to the heat lamp. Keep fresh food available at all times as well. Baby chicks, unlike ducks, generally need medicated feed and supplemental antibiotics in their drinking water. Check with the hatchery for proper recommendations.
Check on the chicks at least a half dozen times a day. Look for some obvious signs. If all the chicks are gathered in the center in a tight circle, they may be cold and you need to slightly lower the lamp. If they are around the perimeter and seem to be avoiding each other, they may be too hot and you need to raise the bulb.
Once the babies are 2 to 3 weeks old, if the temperature is at least 70 degrees and sunny, you might let them outside for a short bit of air, assuming they are completely protected from all dangers or just getting away. When they begin to get feathers and are almost 6 weeks old, they should be ready to put outside in their new chicken home.
Once you bring your baby chicks home, where will their "brooding area" be? The brooding area is the contained place where your baby chicks will live until they can go outside. A large cardboard box, a rubber stock tank, or a suitable tub or other containment system can work. Ideally, for the chick's safety and your sanity, the sides should be at least 18 inches tall. It must be completely clean and dry before putting the baby chicks into it. It is important to provide adequate ventilation, but also keep the baby chicks from being near drafts. Ideally, locate this brooding area in a protected area of your home, safe from small children, other pets and drafts, but a garage or basement area might be best. Baby chicks can be a messy, as they love to pick at their bedding, which can create a bit of dust. Some folks could also find their smell to be a bit offensive. Plan ahead to pick the most suitable area!
The brooding area should be larger enough to provide up to 2 square feet per chick. The bottom of the area should be covered with one or more inches of pine shavings or ground corncob bedding. Remove all soiled litter as often as possible, but at least weekly, and add new litter as necessary.
For the first few weeks, baby chicks need a heat lamp. When using an infra-red heat, place it 18 inches above the top of the bedding for the first week, and raise it 2 inches per week until the bulb is about 24 inches above the litter. Another way to judge this critical step is by actual temperature. When taken at the level the chicks are at, the first week the temperature should be between 92 to 95 degrees. You then lower the temperature by about 5 degrees per week until the temperature remains at 70 degrees. Put the heat lamp on and check the temperature before you bring home your chicks, to make sure all works well.
Provide water in a poultry fount or waterer, specifically made for baby chicks. Clean it daily along with providing a constant source of fresh water. Use feeders designed for baby chicks, and try to position them near the waterers, but slightly closer to the heat lamp. Keep fresh food available at all times as well. Baby chicks, unlike ducks, generally need medicated feed and supplemental antibiotics in their drinking water. Check with the hatchery for proper recommendations.
Check on the chicks at least a half dozen times a day. Look for some obvious signs. If all the chicks are gathered in the center in a tight circle, they may be cold and you need to slightly lower the lamp. If they are around the perimeter and seem to be avoiding each other, they may be too hot and you need to raise the bulb.
Once the babies are 2 to 3 weeks old, if the temperature is at least 70 degrees and sunny, you might let them outside for a short bit of air, assuming they are completely protected from all dangers or just getting away. When they begin to get feathers and are almost 6 weeks old, they should be ready to put outside in their new chicken home.
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